Wednesday, April 4, 2012

Spring Break 2012: Cal Pep


This Barcelona experience deserves its own post. On our last night we went to another recommended restaurant called Cal Pep. We arrived, as advised, about fifteen minutes before the restaurant opened and joined the growing line outside. When it opened at 7:30, the three of us were assigned seats along the bar that extended the entire length of the restaurant. Behind the bar, chefs were already at work preparing various seafood dishes. We quickly learned that there was no menu, and that we were about the only people in the restaurant who had absolutely no idea what we were doing. A server behind the bar suggested that he bring us a series of five traditional Catalan tapas, so we agreed, ordered a bottle of wine and prepared ourselves for a culinary experience. The dynamic behind the counter was fascinating to watch. There were the chefs, constantly in action sautéing, frying and plating various dishes. A few servers took orders and delivered plate after plate of tapas and refilled wine glasses. Everything was extremely fast and efficient, which was necessary because even after we sat down the line continued to grow behind us. First, we were served clams sautéed in wine, butter and garlic, which I tried for the first time. Next came grilled, salted green peppers and a delicious Spanish omelet. The fourth dish was a bit more mysterious but we decided it was a tuna cevice, or some other type of raw seafood dish served with toasted bread. I was really proud of myself for trying this one and I actually really liked it! The last dish was sausage and beans. Although it couldn’t have lasted more than forty-five minutes the way they kept our dishes coming and our wine glasses filled, it was an excellent meal. If there’s one thing I succeeded in doing in Barcelona, I have to say that I definitely experienced Catalan cuisine. 

At Cal Pep after our Meal

Tuesday, April 3, 2012

Spring Break 2012: Barcelona


After a lovely weekend with my parents, the first stop on our Spring Break adventure was Barcelona. We successfully maneuvered the train strike that began about a minute after we had validated our tickets and within an hour we were drinking prosecco on a bus to Pisa. We arrived in Barcelona Sunday evening, easily found our hostel and headed out to a tapas restaurant recommended by Micaela. Coming from our tiny little city of Firenze, it was a bit more difficult to find somewhere to go out in Barcelona on a Sunday night. We finally ended up settling for a pint in an Irish pub before my feet started blistering from my poor choice to wear heels. The next morning we woke up and tackled the splendid Sagrada Familia. Although the line was about a mile long and we decided not to go inside, the façade was spectacular and I am now determined to return when it’s finished in 2026. For lunch we wandered through La Boqueria, the largest open air market in Spain, and bought delicious empanadas and fresh fruit juices. I also bravely tried a skewer of different types of meat advertised as “Barcelona in six bites”...  evidently I only like Barca three bites worth. In the afternoon we ventured down to the Barceloneta area for some sangria at a restaurant by the beach followed by a lovely nap in the sand. That night we went on a bar crawl organized by the hostel and led by a very animated little Spanish girl. She was great and we very much enjoyed not having to find places for ourselves. Having discovered that the Barcelona metro system is very much like the DC one, the next day we were able to cover a lot of ground even after sleeping in. We wandered around the beautiful Parc Guell and in the afternoon walked up to Montjuc to see the 1992 Olympic Stadium. From there we rode the Teleferic up to the Castello de Montjuc. This was probably my favorite part of the trip. It was incredible to be riding up the hill in basically a glass box with the entire city of Barcelona below me. 

Not having known what to expect in Barcelona, I have to admit I wasn't in love with it. It's definitely a place that takes more than a few days to see. I think next time I would plan to visit in the spring or summer when all the Barceloneta shops and restaurants are open. I will also have to return because unfortunately I was far to exhausted to stay up until around 2:00 am when the real Barcelona night life begins.
From the top of Castello de Montjuc

Riding the Teleferic

Entrance to Parc Guell

Looking out from the top of Parc Guell